Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu

Driving on the Costa Brava takes you to fabulous lookouts. But walking the Cami de Ronda is the best way to discover the beaches in Begur. The spectacular coastal path goes for 200 km along the coast, all the way to the French border.

Even on a short trip on the Costa Brava, it’s a fantastic idea to squeeze in some hiking. Although we visited on a busy weekend during the high summer season, the Cami de Ronda near Begur took us to lovely secluded coves where we sometimes were the only souls around.

The hardest part of hiking the Cami de Ronda is to choose which section you want to explore. They all have their charms!

We walked for almost six hours to complete the 6km return walk at a leisurely pace. It wasn’t particularly strenuous, although it’s steep in some parts. But we took our time and stopped a lot to enjoy the beautiful views from the top of the cliffs.

Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu
Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu

How to walk the Cami de Ronda

The section from Tamariu to Llafranc is one of the most popular hikes on the Cami de Ronda. But you can start and end from almost anywhere on the coast. You are in control, and I love this. It’s easy to choose your distance as you go and depending on the time you have. You can walk for a few minutes, half a day, a full day, or even several days (or weeks!) in a row. If you’re interested in planning more than a short hike on the Cami de Ronda, I recommend buying the guide Costa Brava Way*.

The path goes up and down from lovely coves to the top of spectacular cliffs, passing by a few beaches that are accessible from the road. You may go back the same way or look for public transport as a few buses are running on the Costa Brava (but not everywhere!). If you are travelling as a group, leaving a second car at the end of the path can be a good option.

I read some parts of the Cami de Ronda are easy enough to be done with only your thongs and towel. Although it was mostly true for the section we walked, we still went on some slippery steep paths on the Cami de Ronda near Begur. I was glad we picked proper sports shoes over our thongs for the walk. But the main challenge was the heat and we were happy when the wind picked up. Don’t forget to bring plenty of water. You’ll have an opportunity to refill in Tamariu before heading back.

Green Travel Tip: You can choose eco-friendly (and skin-friendly!) sun protection by covering your skin with clothes and opting for a mineral sunscreen with fewer chemicals.
Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu
Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu

Cami de Ronda – Begur beaches

Begur beaches are reputed to look fantastic. Exploring the Cami de Ronda from Begur sounded like a perfect way to discover the stunning coast and hidden coves only accessible by foot or boat. It didn’t disappoint.

Aiguablava

As we spent the night in Aiguablava, a lovely beach with restaurants and hotels nearby, we chose it as the starting point of our relaxed half-day trek. It was easy to park the cars in Aiguablava (3€ for the day). Plus, there are plenty of accommodation options available for different types of budget. Check out the panoramic sea views of Hotel Aigua Blava* for example, or the cheapest option for groups at the Country Camp camping*.

We chose to go south towards Tamariu, the easy option. Going north on the Cami de Ronda towards Begur Cape would have been a real hiking challenge and we weren’t prepared for this on this trip.

We initially thought about parking our second car at Tamariu to avoid going back the same way. We changed our mind after finding an indoor track to transform the one-way coastal walk into a circuit. In the end, we decided to go back the same way, along the coast. It was too beautiful not to do it again, especially as the colours were starting to change at the end of the day!

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Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu
View of Cape Begur and Aiguablava

Cova D’en Gispert lookout

The start of our walk was via the road, going up the main road (Carrer Cova del Bisbe) all the way to Mirador De La Cova D’en Gispert. Unfortunately, private properties block the coastal paths in some parts of the Cami de Ronda. I wished there was a carpark up the hill. It was the only part on our hike where we struggled to find the path. We probably would have missed it if we didn’t have Maps.me, as we weren’t using any hiking map.

Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu
Cova D’en Gispert lookout

Cala Marquesa cove

This beautiful beach between Begur and Tamariu is only accessible by boat. But it was nonetheless stunning to watch the cove from the top of the cliff. We dreamt about hiring a sailing yacht to explore the coast next time we visit the region.

Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu
Cala Marquesa

Aigua Xelida beach

The Cami de Ronda made us cross Aigua Xelida beach, a lovely hidden cove surrounded by magnificent rock formations. Because it’s only 25-meter long, it quickly looks crowded during the high season although there aren’t that many people. We had to slalom between towels to continue the Cami de Ronda on the other side.

You can only get to Aigua Xelida by foot or boat (or canoe!). Many beautiful nearby villas have easy access to the small beach and the carpark isn’t too far either. But it mostly involves steps!

If you have time, enough friends, and a good budget, check out the views from this villa* and this holiday home* near Aigua Xelida. It’s dreamy!

Tamariu

After many steps, we reached Tamariu. Compared to the small coves we had seen during our hikes, Tamariu looked like a busy urban beach. But it has kept a village feel and size. I would have been happy to stay there for a few days to hire a kayak and explore the nearby coves.

We arrived there in time for lunch on the promenade and enjoyed their selection of fish and seafood. It was also a perfect opportunity to buy water for our trip back to Aiguablava.

No one in the group wanted to take the inland route option. Although it had steep parts and we were getting tired, we all fell in love with the beautiful coast. It seemed we just couldn’t get enough!

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Busy beach of Tamariu
Tamariu

Map of our short hike on the Cami de Ronda near Begur

It takes about two hours to drive to this area of the Costa Brava from Barcelona. It’s an easy day trip away from the vibrant city, but you should stay longer if you can.

The map below isn’t exact but gives an idea of the point of interest we explored. If you’re looking for an itinerary to follow for a short walk, you should download one on your phone using Maps.me. We found it really helpful. And if you want a detailed map for hiking, I recommend buying the Costa Brava Way*.

Have you hiked the Cami de Ronda or been to any Begur beaches? Share your experience of the Costa Brava in the comments below!

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Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu
Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu

Short Hike on the Cami de Ronda: Begur Beaches from Aiguablava to Tamariu

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