The jungle around us has just got dark at the end of a fabulous day in Mexico. I am writing this article in a beautiful and cosy traditional Mayan house, lit by candles. There is no electricity here, and not many tourists. I like it; it is a great break from the busy Riviera Maya.
Today, I did something awesome. I saw a Mayan Pyramid for the fist time and climbed it. Just after, we refreshed in a stunning cenote. The first one of our trip to Mexico. Both were fantastic experiences. I highly recommend to travellers exploring the Yucatan Peninsula!
Climbing Coba Pyramid
There are many things I got excited about when planning this trip to the Yucatan Peninsula, and visiting Coba ruins was high on the list. Coba was a large Mayan town (approx. 70km2). Its 42-meters high pyramid is impressive. It is bigger than the Wonder of the World Chichen Itza, and one of the tallest in the Yucatan! Unlike Chichen Itza, Coba ruins have not been renovated. They still sit in the jungle. Some parts have a messy look. It feels very authentic.
We did not hire a guide. We visited almost all the ruins but quickly as the primary goal of the visit was to climb that pyramid. We are going to Chichen Itza in a few days, and we will do a guided tour there. Otherwise, what you see does not make sense. You need the explanations to learn about the Mayan culture and to give sense to what you are looking at.
Today was a hot day. Climbing the 113 narrow steps to the top of the pyramid was a strenuous experience for some people. Some others were scared of heights and were out of their comfort zone. I found it a lot easier than it looks. Is my fear of heights fading away? I was extra careful on the way down as the rocks are slippery. Whether you choose to do it on the side, or with the rope or on your bum, it is important to take it seriously. Remember it was possible to climb Chichen Itza until someone fell and died there.
The view up there was breathtaking. It was perfect to realise how flat the region is. The jungle all around the pyramid was beautiful. We could spot another top of a pyramid sticking out of the trees.
Coba was not busy; we even had the pyramid just for the two of us at some point! We could have stayed for the sunset with an after hour visit. It was tempting, but we also wanted to take time in the nearby cenotes – reputed to be beautiful! – and join our hosts for dinner, so we passed the opportunity.
Cenotes near Coba: Can it Be More Beautiful?
There are three beautiful cenotes to visit 5 minutes away by car from Coba Ruins: Multun-ha, Choo-ha and Tamcach-ha. The three are quite different, so if you have time, it would not be too repetitive to visit them all.
You can swim in the three cenotes next to Coba. I liked how they were carefully protected. Everybody was asked to shower before entering the site, to minimise the water pollution and keep it pure.
Following our hosts’ recommendations, we visited Multun-ha cenote as a priority. We went down the spiral stairs without really knowing what to expect underground. It was the first cenote we would visit. The surprise was incredible. It was as per Alfredo’s description: spectacular with transparent water and incredibly calm. Indeed, we were lucky to have the cenote just for the two of us. We could not have wished for a better experience. Did we love it that much because it was the first one? As we were leaving, an Argentinian family arrived. The older ones had tears in their eyes seeing such a beautiful place. It was very touching to witness their joy, and it added some extra emotions to the visit. After thanking God for creating such a place, the oldest women shared her delight with us. They had visited many other cenotes in the region, but she said none had been as breathtaking as this one.
We saw seven cenotes during our 14 days in Mexico. Was Multun-ha the most beautiful one?
It’s hard to say as we chose to visit cenotes that were very different. But Multun-ha was indeed special. We can only access it via narrow, twisting stairs. Once inside the cenote, we could not see the stairs anymore. It felt as if we were entirely underground. The silence and the artificial lights created a dramatic and majestic ambience. At any time, we could clearly see the bottom underwater. It was hard to believe the water was 30 metres deep in some areas. Impressive. I did feel something different down there.
As the sites were closing at 6 pm, we had time to visit another cenote nearby. With its jumping platforms, we thought Tamcach-ha would be busy and lively. So we picked Choo-ha instead, hoping for a quieter visit after the special relaxed moment we just had at Multun-ha. We were lucky to arrive just when a bus tour was leaving. Again, we had the cenote for ourselves as we were the last ones to visit it that day. The water clarity was less impressive than at Multun-ha, but the size of the stalactites was creating a real wow-effect.
After visiting other cenotes during our trip, I find Choo-ha was not that original. Hence, out of the two, I would recommend visiting Multun-ha as a priority. We did not go to Tamcach-ha but I am sure doing some cave jumping could sound very exciting for some travellers!
Have you been to Coba? Which of the cenotes did you prefer? Please, leave a comment below to share your experience!
Where to stay in Coba?
We stopped in Macario Gomez, between Coba and Tulum, at Alfredo and Eliza’s eco-project. They are fabulous hosts we found via AirBNB. They have created a simple but cosy place for travellers who wish to escape the crowds and have a more authentic experience.
This accommodation will not suit everybody: shower and dry toilets are outside, and there is no electricity.
You can also go to Coba as a day trip from Tulum where you will find plenty of accommodation options, from big resorts to hostels and campsites.
If you don’t want to hire a car, you can join a tour that will take you to Coba and the cenotes. You can book one online using Viator* which offers a selection of options from Playa del Carmen, Cancun and Tulum.
Where is Coba?
Coba is in the Yucatan Peninsula, on the eastern side of Mexico, not too far from Cancun. It is located between Tulum and Chichen Itza.
If you are on a budget and want to avoid renting a car or booking a tour to visit Coba ruins, you should be able to go there with the ADO bus from Tulum. To visit the cenotes, you will probably need to catch a taxi at the exit of the ruins.